Oct 31, 2009

I surfed!

I surfed.

More or less.  I fail at paddling.

Justin's friend Sal loves to surf, so he and a few other guys go out pretty often to White Plains.  It's  nice beach- the water's warm and the waves aren't big at all.  He asked if we wanted to go, knowing Justin would never hear the end of it if he got to go surfing before I did.  I've wanted to learn to surf as long as I can remember.

We rented boards from Outdoor Rec yesterday, which was an adventure....  one of them was the longest fucking board I've ever seen.  Seriously, Duke could have surfed this thing.  The other was smaller.  They almost fit in the Forester.  Almost.  We had to bungee the back down.  And we still ended up with a pressure crack in the windshield when we hit a bump too hard. :p  Luckily Sal took the boards in his van this morning.  Hopefully the crack can just be sealed up and we won't have to replace it.

I had to get up at the buttcrack of dawn so we could get out there.  I can see why- the surf was better and there weren't so many people (it got crowded later on).  We got out there just as the sun came up, which was worth it in and of itself.  All the guys started paddling out and I....  well, let's just say I tried.  OMG, paddling is fucking hard!  The guys were doing just fine and seriously outstripped me.  They looked back and waited, I cought up (sort of) then they waited again....  I finally just told them not to wait for me.  There was no way I was making out as far as them.  I eventually made it out about 100-150yds and sat there.  Sal had given us some very brief instructions before we paddled out.  Justin hung out with me for a bit, and I just tried to catch the waves.  I made it up on my knees once or twice, but promptly fell off.  I got smacked in the face with water, rolled over, got water up my nose and feel like I must have swallowed half the damn Pacific.  I have board rash on my knees, inner thighs and the inside of my upper arm (note to self- no more Softop boards!).  I don't know the last time I had so much fun.

Eventually I just plain wore out.  I paddled back to the beach and hung out with Tracy for a while.  Then Justin and the other guys came up and rested.  We switched boards and headed back out.  They all went ahead of me again, so I was on my own trying to figure shit out.  This old Hawaiian dude named Molokai who looked like he's been surfing for like 900 years saw me and paddled over.  He asked my name then told me he'd help me out, since he was teaching his friend.  He held my board and gave me a push and I shot right off the end....  turns out not enough wax on the board.  :p  He handed me a chink, showed me how to wax it and paddled off.  Weird. I almost made it that next time, but my shoulders finally just said, "NO".  So I headed back to shore and rinsed off, watched the guys and and sunbathed.  It was one of the best mornings I've ever had.

Justin had a blast.  He wants to get boards.  I do too.  I can definitely do this pretty regularly.  I just need to work of the paddling part......

1 comment:

Erica said...

Do you realize how jealous I am of you.. all around.
This is so awesome Dor.
You totally rock! And sucked some salt water!